Nourishment in Nkhata Bay

This past weekend I was lucky enough to have a little time off to explore more of Malawi, so I chose to travel up to the northern part of Lake Malawi, a little less than 400 kilometers north of Lilongwe.

I had heard that it was wise to get to the bus around 7:30 am, so Thursday morning I woke up early and was at the bus station in due time. The bus typically leaves between 10 and 10:30 am, so I had plenty of time to wait and chat before the bus departed. The people around me confirmed what I had heard before about the length of the trip, saying that it usually lasts between 5 and 6 hours. These experiences, it turned out, did not at all match mine. I ended up arriving at Kande Beach at around 9:30 pm, after an 11 hour odyssey that included chickens, solar panels, and ill babies. Bon voyage!

With that said, I was extremely happy to arrive! In the end, the journey was a good story on the way to a beautiful place. After one night in Kande Beach, a few friends picked me up in a car (quite the relief) and we drove up to Nkhata Bay. Nkhata is reminiscent of a Caribbean stop-over, a lively village abutting the lakeshore, surrounded by rolling verdant hills that drop steeply into turquoise water. At the risk of sounding overly melodramatic, the place is genuinely astoundingly beautiful. It was a weekend well-spent, with mostof my time occupied by friendly chats and leisurely reading.

The majority of people around Nkhata Bay are Malawian Tonga, most of whom are Christian. They are almost entirely reliant on the lake for subsistence, and it is clear that the area proves to be no exception to the pervasive poverty of Malawi. But I did find myself wondering when a place like this would change. It seems inevitable that it will at some point attract the attention from tourist developers to completely change the place. Not that I want this to happen,
for entirely selfish reasons, but I hope that when it does happen it is performed in a way that is cognizant and sensitive to the local culture and the incredible majesty of the environment there.

In any case, I am back in Lilongwe now, and look forward to the next (and last) couple of weeks. Tomorrow, we have a training on the new Land Bill with LandNet, which should clarify some of the complicated amendments that have only come into law quite recently. Otherwise, preparations for the Training of Trainers Refresh are in full swing. I’ll update you during the weekend on how the LandNet training went!



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